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Vintage Cameras, Galvanized Metal Trays and Not Getting a Tan

After being  grey, cold and rainy it has been absolutely beautiful in Los Angles.  Sunny, mid 70s -the kind of weather that makes you call your relatives back East and gloat.

On the rainy days I worked outside – damp and freezing (OK, California freezing – meaning I had to wear pants…  you know, true suffering*).

And during these sunny days?

Never left the house.

So I don’t have much of a tan but I did get a lot done!

I’ve been working on a new set of Vintage Typewriter Coasters.green-typewriter-coaster-by-cheltenham-road

While I struggle to comprehend Snapchat and Instagram I’m pretty much 100% down with any sort of vintage technology -typewriters, cameras, old phones….

Plus I thought they  would make the perfect gift for writers.

And you may recall the image transfer project I did on that metal tray I got from Michaels diy-michaels-crafts-tray-transformation

Well, I liked it so much and it was so easy to do that I went back and snapped up all the ones they had left in stock and played with some more designs.

I pulled a free camera graphic from The Old Design Shop (a terrific graphics resource) and combined it with the text of an actual old advertisement:industrial-style-metal-tray-image-transfer-by-cheltenham-road

And I thought I’d see how it came out if I added a fair amount of color so I used a vintage 20th Century Limited train graphic:

diy-metal-tray-image-transfer-by-cheltenham-roadAnd finally I was curious about if the details on an old photo would make the transfer so I resurrected my favorte Balboa Bathing Girl Parade image.  And it came out just how I wanted it.  I actually had to add some distressing as it looked a bit too new.balboa-beach-girls-tray

I think I’m gonna have a lot of fun with these!

If you wanted to do your own, it’s pretty simple and you can find my tutorial for it here.

And finally, back to  coasters.

My brother-in-law, Rich, collects vintage Tom Swift books and asked for a coaster set for his office.

Do you know about Tom Swift?  He’s sort of along the lines of The Hardy Boys or Nancy Drew only it’s science not mysteries.

ts-and-airline

They were published from the early teens through, I believe the 50s or 60s.  The early covers are great!  I mean, how could you not be fascinated by Tom Swift and his Giant Magnet or Television Detector!!  It’s a Thrilling Read!!!!!ts-coaster-set

Rich actually did all the photoshop work to fix up the old covers and I think he did an amazing job.   I hope he likes the final result.

Well, it’s supposed to be another beautiful day today!

I plan to hide in the bathroom.

Hope everyone has had a good weekend.

*just to be clear – I don’t mean to imply that I usually work naked.  I just mean that more often than not I wear shorts rather than pants.

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It’s a Sign! Take 2 – A More Detailed Tutorial

Image Transfer TutorialI feel that I owe you an apology.

I was so happy with that Santa Monica Beach Sign that I rushed a bit getting the post up and created, I think, a pretty un-useful “tutorial.

So please allow me to revisit it with a slightly more detailed approach.

This will also give me a chance to provide a more in-depth explanation of the Lenk tool and how (and why) I use it.

Warning: This is gonna be a pretty lengthy and detailed post/tutorial so if you never plan to do a transfer using a Lenk tool you might want to sit this one out.

Here is what I used for this project:

Lumber:

  • 1/2 Inch Plywood measuring 18×18 inches for the backer
  • Five (5) strips of MDF wood 18″ x 2.75″
  • 1/2 inch plywood 18″ x 4″ for the shelf

Paint:

  • White, flat-finish, latex paint
  • Blue, flat-finish, latex paint
  • White spray paint
  • wood stain
  • Spray-on Polycrylic

Tools and Sundries:

  • wax (just an old candle)
  • Lenk tool
  • 3 coat hooks
  • wood glue
  • wood screws
  • sandpaper/sander
  • jig-saw (for rounding the corners of the shelf)
  • hangers

Painting and Aging (the title of my yet-to-be-released, scandalous autobiography)How to Distress Wood

To age the scrap MDF here is what I did:

1) stained the edges with gel stain.

2) After the stain dried I rubbed a chunk of wax along the edges

3) painted the slat with flat, white latex paint  and let it dry.

4) went back in and sanded the edges.  The paint won’t stick to the wax so you end up with a nice, distressed, edge.

I repeated this process with the remaining strips painting them alternating blue and white.distressed wood techniqueFor the plywood shelf I used a jigsaw to round off the corners, sanded the whole thing and used the same wax/paint/sand process on the edges for an authentic, worn look.

I also painted the backer board blue and sanded it’s edges.

When everything was dry I glued all the strips into place (I didn’t attach the shelf till the very, very end).

Wall Lenk Tool Process:Lenk Craft ToolOK, as you know, I’m loving the Wall Lenk Tool.  But it does come with pros and cons

Pros:

  • I think it produces results very much on par with the various transfer mediums I’ve tried.
  • It’s quicker (you don’t have to let it dry overnight or anything).
  • It gives a very authentic “aged” appearance.
  • Because only the graphic is transferred you don’t have to cut out the image right along it’s edges nor do you end up with any lingering edges or visible outlines where the paper ended.
  • It’s pretty inexpensive (I got mine from Amazon) and, of course, if you do a lot of transferring, you’ll only have to buy it once.

Cons:

  • It takes some trial and error to get the hang of it.
  • The results are a bit unpredictable but really no more so than using any other method (and I’ve found that it’s easy, as I did on this sign, to go back in and re-transfer if needed).
  • It has no heat-control mechanism so I will inevitably set something on fire one of these days.

Tips:

I’ve found it’s very important, if you your using the Lenk with a painted surface,  to let the paint cure as much as possible.  If I can, I let it dry for 48 hours – even longer is better (although for this project I think I over-did it waiting 6 months).

Flat paint works better than satin or semi-gloss and if I want a shiny finished product then I just use a glossy sealer at the end.

I also like to give the painted surface a light sanding with a 220 grit sandpaper before I begin.

OK, the Actual Image Transfer Process

(I’m mixing and matching new and old photos here so don’t be thrown by the lettering changing colors)

For this sign I gathered my graphics (the woman is just an image isolated from an old matchbook) and printed them, in reverse using plain, legal size copy paper on my laser printer (I don’t know if ink jet prints will work) Reversed Graphics

I let the tool heat up for 8 minutes as the manufacturer instructs.

It actually gets a bit too hot initially and if pressed into the paper right then it will just burn it.Wall Lenk Tool TutorialSo, I  “burn off” some of the heat by pressing it to a wood block.  There is no set time or amount of heat or any way to check the temperature so I just do it until the wood quits smoking.

I then rub the lenk over the graphic.  Image Transfer TutorialAgain there is no “set” amount of time for this.  The more you rub the more image will transfer so it depends on how “aged” you want it to look. I went over this line of text for about 4 minutes and then paused to let the Lenk heat up again a bit (it loses heat as you go) and then rubbed for another 4 minutes.

I just go back and forth sort of slowly, keeping the tool in motion.  If you stay in one spot too long you risk either burning the paper or getting paint so heated up that it bubbles and melts (not good).

This is the real “learning-curve” part.  There is no way to tell how well the transfer has worked at this stage.  I’ve taken to peeling away just a little bit of the corner of the paper just to get a sense of how it’s going and to determine if I should go over it a few more times or not.

Once I’m satisfied I let the paper cool thoroughly and then go back in with a fairly damp cloth and rub away.Image Transfer using Wall Lenk ToolThe paper comes off fairly easily under light-to-moderate rubbing.

I find that I have to do this process a few times.  I’ll do it once, it will look awesome but then it dries and there is a light, white, film of left-over paper visible, so I just go back in with the damp cloth and give it another round.

I’ve also found that it’s pretty easy, if I decide the transfer wasn’t good enough, to go back in and do it again.  I wasn’t thrilled with my first go on this sign so I just reprinted and tried again.  Here is the “A” in Santa Monica image transfer technique(I’ve got to be honest, I’m a bit stunned that it’s possible to successfully line the images to re-do them but I’ve done it with graphics large and small and had no problem.)

Once I’m satisfied with the results I seal it with a spray on polycrylic

Finishing Steps:

After marking where the shelf was to go I drilled pilot holes and then glued the shelf in place and screwed it in from the back.Attach Shelf

I had spray painted the coat hangers and screwed them into place as well and added hangers to the back of the board.DIY Vintage Beach Sign

I hope this helps with any questions about the tool or how to use it.  But feel free to fire away if I’ve left out some step or been vague about some process.

Happy image-transferring!

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